All our machines come with built in drain, detergent and rinse aid pump as standard
Compack X25E 350 Glasswasher
£1,205.00
Quick turn around
Popular items in stock
On the road servicing
Years of expertise
Why We Sell Compack
We’ve sold and serviced pretty much every brand of glasswasher going. Winterhalter, Classeq, Hobart — you name it, our engineers have had their hands inside it. We settled on Compack because they tick every box that actually matters when you’re running a busy kitchen.
First off, we’re the UK importer for Compack. That’s not just a badge — it means we hold every single spare part in stock and carry the common ones on our vans. When something goes wrong (and with any machine, eventually something will), we can usually fix it on the first visit. Try getting that from a Winterhalter dealer.
We also had direct input into the UK specification of these machines. The pump drains come as standard on every model because we asked for them. The electrical specs are set up for UK supplies. These aren’t machines designed for the Italian market and shoehorned into British kitchens — they’re built for the way things work round here.
And here’s the bit that matters most: we rent these machines out ourselves. If we didn’t trust them, we wouldn’t put our own money into the rental fleet. Every Compack glasswasher we rent comes with a lifetime warranty. If it breaks beyond repair, we replace it. That’s skin in the game.
Before You Buy a Glasswasher
There are four things you need to sort before any glasswasher goes in. Get these wrong and you’ll have problems from day one.
- Power Supply
Most of our glasswashers run off a standard 13A plug — same as your kettle. The larger 500mm models with higher throughput need a 30A supply, which is a dedicated spur your electrician will need to install. It’s not a big job, but it needs doing before the machine arrives.
- Physical Space
Glasswashers come in three basket sizes: 350mm, 400mm, and 500mm. The machine itself needs a bit more space than that on each side. Measure the gap you’ve got, tell us what it is, and we’ll tell you which models fit. Don’t guess — we’ve seen too many machines ordered that don’t fit through the door, let alone into the space.
- Drainage
Good news here — every Compack glasswasher comes with a pump drain as standard. That means you don’t need a floor drain directly underneath the machine. The pump will push waste water to wherever your nearest drain point is. One less thing to worry about.
- Water Supply and Pressure
This is the big one. Your glasswasher needs a cold water feed, and the pressure needs to be at least 2 bar when the machine is running. Not when everything else is switched off — when the kitchen is busy, the toilets are flushing, and the sinks are going. If your water pressure drops when demand is high, you need a model with a brake tank (that’s our SM range). We can test your pressure during a site survey — it takes five minutes and saves a lot of headaches.
A Quick Word About Legislation
Here’s something a lot of people don’t realise: you can’t wash glasses and plates in the same machine. It’s UK law — cross-contamination risk, different detergents, different temperatures. If you’re washing food-contact items like plates and cutlery, you need a separate dishwasher.
If you’re in a setting with vulnerable people — nursing homes, schools, hospitals — your glasswasher needs to be WRAS-approved with a brake tank fitted. That’s our SM and SMP models. It’s not optional in those environments.
Understanding the Compack Range
Compack’s naming system is actually pretty logical once you know it. The letters after the model number tell you exactly what you’re getting:
X = Standard machine. No built-in extras. Plug it in, connect the water, away you go. Best price point.
PL = Built-in water softener. If you’re in a hard water area (and round here, most places are), this saves you buying a separate external softener.
SM = Brake tank fitted. Stores water in a small tank at the back and uses a boost pump to maintain constant rinse pressure. Essential if your mains pressure is unreliable. Also the minimum spec for WRAS approval in vulnerable settings.
SMP = Both. Brake tank and built-in water softener. Belt and braces — sorts out both water pressure and water hardness in one machine.
The number in the model name tells you the basket size and power: 25 = 350mm/13A, 28 or 29 = 400mm/13A, 54 = 500mm/13A, 56 = 500mm/30A.
Looking After Your Glasswasher
The manufacturer rates these machines at seven years. Our customers regularly get ten to twelve. The difference? Maintenance. Here’s what that actually means:
Daily
Empty the tank, clean the filters, wipe down the wash arms and jets. Takes five minutes at the end of service. Skip it for a few days and you’ll start seeing cloudy glasses, and your detergent will be working overtime to compensate.
Weekly
Run a deep clean cycle. Check the door seals. Make sure the drain isn’t blocked. Inspect the wash arms for anything clogging the jets.
Six-Monthly
Book a proper service with us. We’ll check the heating elements, the pump, the seals, the water softener if you’ve got one, and replace anything that’s showing wear. Six-monthly servicing is the single biggest thing you can do to get a long life out of your machine.
The number one reason we get called out? No water softener fitted. Hard water builds up limescale on the heating elements, and limescale on heating elements means higher energy bills, longer cycle times, and eventually a dead machine. A water softener costs a fraction of a replacement glasswasher.
Rent, Buy, or Finance
About a quarter of our customers buy outright. Around 30% rent, and the rest go for finance. There’s no wrong answer — it depends on your situation.
Renting means no capital outlay, the payments are 100% tax deductible, and you get a lifetime warranty that covers everything including replacement if the machine’s beyond repair. For a lot of businesses, especially newer ones, that’s the safest option.
Buying means you own it. Some people see rental as dead money, and fair enough — if you’ve got the cash and you’re planning to be in the same premises for a good while, buying makes sense.
Finance splits the difference. You spread the cost, and you own the machine at the end. Monthly payments, predictable cash flow, no big lump sum.
We’ll talk through the options when you get in touch. No pressure, no hard sell — just the numbers so you can make the right call for your business.
Common Mistakes We See
We’ve been doing this long enough to spot the patterns. These are the things that shorten the life of a glasswasher faster than anything:
No water softener. We’ve already mentioned it, but it bears repeating. This is the number one killer.
Cheap detergent. The budget stuff foams up, doesn’t rinse properly, and leaves residue on everything. Glasses come out looking worse than they went in. Use the proper stuff — it works out cheaper in the long run because you use less of it.
Wrong sizing. A 350mm basket is fine for a small bistro doing 20 covers. Try running a 200-cover pub night through one and you’ll be there all night. Get the right size for your throughput and you won’t be cursing the machine at 11pm on a Saturday.
Poor housekeeping. Blocked jets, dirty filters, limescale buildup — all of it is preventable with ten minutes a day. The machines that come in for emergency repairs are almost always the ones that haven’t been cleaned properly.
Frequently Asked Questions
No. UK law requires separate machines for glasses and food-contact items like plates and cutlery. Different detergents, different temperatures, cross-contamination risk. If you’re washing plates, you need a dishwasher as well as a glasswasher.
It depends on your water pressure. If your mains pressure is stable at 2 bar or above — even when everything else in the building is running — you don’t need one. If it drops, a brake tank (SM model) keeps your rinse pressure consistent. If you’re in a care home, school, or hospital, you need a brake tank regardless — it’s a regulatory requirement for WRAS approval.
WRAS stands for Water Regulations Advisory Scheme. In settings serving vulnerable people — care homes, nurseries, schools, hospitals — your glasswasher needs a Class A air gap (brake tank) to prevent contaminated water flowing back into the mains. Our SM and SMP models meet this requirement.
Almost certainly, if you’re in the Midlands. Hard water causes limescale buildup on heating elements, which shortens machine life, increases energy costs, and leaves marks on glasses. Some of our models (PL and SMP) have built-in softeners. For the others, we can supply and fit an external unit.
13A machines plug into a standard socket. 30A machines need a dedicated spur installed by an electrician. The 30A models heat faster and recover more quickly between cycles, which matters in very high-volume settings. For most pubs and restaurants, 13A is absolutely fine.
The manufacturer rates them at seven years. With proper daily cleaning, regular servicing, and a water softener fitted, our customers typically get ten to twelve years. Without maintenance, considerably less.
No water softener. Limescale builds up on the heating elements, cycles get slower, energy bills go up, and eventually the element fails. Second most common: poor housekeeping — blocked filters, dirty jets, ignored drains. Both are completely preventable.
Yes. About 30% of our customers rent. No capital outlay, 100% tax deductible, and a lifetime warranty that covers everything — including a full replacement if the machine is beyond repair. We also offer finance if you want to spread the cost and own the machine at the end.
350mm is for small bistros and wine bars with low throughput. 400mm suits small-to-medium pubs and bars. 500mm is what most busy pubs, restaurants, and hotels need. When in doubt, go bigger — you’ll appreciate the extra capacity on a busy night.
No. Every Compack glasswasher comes with a pump drain as standard. It’ll push waste water to your nearest drain point, wherever that is.